-->Fundsache - irgendwie kam mir der Gedanke, da müßte iiiiirgendwo ein Zusammenhang sein, tja, welcher, hmmmm...


Futter



Bei Stinktieren hat sich die Verwendung einer Diät sehr bewährt, da sie die Lebenserwartung erhöht hat und zugleich, das Risiko von Alterserkrankungen reduzierte. Ziel ist ein gesundes, nicht übergewichtiges Stinktier. Mittlerweile werden Stinktiere bis zu 23 Jahren alt - in der freien Wildbahn erlebt ein Stinktier selten das 3. Lebensjahr. 3 Jahre war auch das Alter, das Stinktiere am Anfang der Domestizierung erreichten. Doch dank des Einsatzen von Menschen wie Jane Bone oder Shelor Brumbleboe werden Stinktiere nun viel älter, was auch stark auf die angepaßte Ernährung zurückzuführen ist.

 

Für erwachsenen Stinktiere (ab ca. 18 Monate):

Als Grundnahrung ist ein gutes Trockenhundefutter und Gemüse zu verwenden. Dazu zählt beispielsweise das von Tierärzten entwickelte"Science Diet", das in guten Tierfuttergeschäften erhältlich ist. Leider enthalten viele andere Futtermarken mehr Stoffe für ein glänzendes Fell als für eine gesunde Ernährung. Ich habe sehr gute Erfahrungen mit"Science Diet" gemacht und kann nur jedem Raten dieses Futter zu verwenden. Auch die Marke"Pro Plan" wird immer wieder empfohlen - ist aber schwerer in Deutschland zu beschaffen.

Die Fütterungszeiten lassen sich sehr leicht festlegen: Ein erwachsenes Stinktier wird ein bis zweimal pro Tag gefüttert. Es ist dabei egal, wann dies stattfindet. Ich füttere jeden Morgen zwischen 8.oo Uhr und 9.oo Uhr; am Wochenende auch einmal später. Ein Stinktier kann sich sehr gut an einen Rhythmus anpassen, solange er auch von der Seite des Fütterers durchgehalten wird. Die Zeit selbst ist dann nicht mehr maßgeblich und kann den persönlichen angepaßt werden. Auch ein Füttern vor dem zu Bett gehen ist möglich, doch wird die Einhaltung des Rythmuses wieder schwieriger, da man jeden Abend daheim sein muß.
Falls man wirklich einmal nicht eine Nacht oder dann einen Morgen zuhause ist, kann auch ein Fastentag für das Stinktier eingelegt werden, solange noch genug frisches Wasser zur Verfügung steht. Es sollte allerdings keine Dauereinrichtung werden und nicht öfter als 2 bis 3 Mal pro Monat vorkommen.

Eine Standardmahlzeit für ein erwachsenes Stinktier kann sich aus folgenden Komponenten zusammensetzen: Die insgesamte Menge läßt sich an dem oberen Bild sehr gut abschätzen!
WAS WIEVIEL PRO TAG WARUM
Trockenhundefutter 8 - 10 Brocken, sind nur ca. fingernagel groß Grundversorgung
Gemüse eine Liste finden sie weiter unten, die Menge können sie an dem Bild oben sehen Vitamine, etc. - außerdem ist es ein guter Magenfüller ohne dick zu machen
Magermilchpulver 1 Teelöffel vor allem wegen des Calciums zur Verminderung von Knochen und Zahnproblemen
Vitamintabletten 1/4 Pfizer-Vitamine für Hunde (Apotheke oder Tierarzt) rundet die Vitaminversorgung ab und beugt Mangelerscheinungen zusätzlich vor
Magermilchjoghurt 1 Teelöffel verbessert die Verdauung
Getreide 1-2 Eßlöffel Ballaststoffe - Haferflocken lassen sich gut dosieren und leicht unter das Futter mischen
Früchte 1/8 Apfel oder auch 3 Weintrauben Vitamine und Spurenelemente - aber nicht zuviel, da sie Durchfall verursachen
gekochte Eier 1 gekochtes Ei alle 1 bis 2 Wochen enthält eine Menge Eiweiß und es ist immer wieder eine Wonne das Stinktier beim Knacken zu beobachten
Snack 1 Butterkeks Zucker, der die Aufnahme von Calcium und komischerweise auch das Halten des Gewichtes erleichtert. Ideal ist es den Keks als besonderen Leckerbissen extra zu einer anderen Tageszeit zu füttern
Wasser Schale, jeden Tag erneuern je nach Hitze braucht das Stinktier auch Wasser in der Reinform

Gemüseliste:

Es kann so gut wie jedes Gemüse verfüttert werden; auch bei den Mengen kann man fast keinen Fehler machen, da es fast ohne Kalorien ist (Avocados sind da eine Ausnahme!)

* Paprikaschote (1/2, ist meist sehr beliebt)
* Salatgurke (2 - 3 cm Scheibe)
* Chicoree (einige Blätter)
* Champignons (1 - 2)
* Bohnen (ein paar)


Was darf ein Stinktier auf keinen Fall fressen:

* Katzenfutter
* rohes Fleisch
* ganze Sonnenblumenkerne, da die Hüllen unter Umständen den Darm pervorieren
* Schokolade
* Fast-Food
* Hundefutter mit hohem Fettanteil (wie z. B. IAMS)
* Dosenhundefutter
* getrocknete Früchte, da diese meist Schwefeldioxide enthalten
* Gerichte vom eigenen Essenstisch
* Bienenpollen, da er oft zu allergischen Reaktionen geführt hat
* getrocknetes Getreide oder Gräser



 

Vit. C or a liquid Vit C over or in their food, and (very easy way to measure sugar here) ONE VANILLA WAFER, ONE SUGAR COOKIE OR 1/4 GRAHAM CRACKER, not the whole box or bag, just one--these are ways to get their bodies to make use of the calcium for stronger bones, teeth and better looking coats with the prevention of tooth or gum infections made easy, simple and cost effective. You will hear that your skunk is a hunter and must hunt for food, this is true. It will hunt for the refrigerator, the microwave and you. DAILY DIET FOR ADULT AND MATURE SKUNKS PROTEIN: Baked or boiled Chicken or water packed tuna fish or cooked dried beans with rice orVEGETABLES: A variety of mixed vegetables, fresh, frozen, or cooked. If canned vegetables are used, such as Veg-All, rinse with cold water to remove excess salt that is unhealthy for your skunk. Feed all they want within reason. DAIRY: Low-fat cottage cheese, 1 Tablespoon per day. Some skunks cannot digest diary products well and this could cause diarrhea. One teaspoon of non-fat dry milk, such as Carnation, will boost calcium without diarrhea. YOGURT: Approximately 1 Tablespoon per day to aid in digestion. Helps to control infections, upset tummies and diarrhea. CARBOHYDRATES: Small baked or boiled potato or 1/2 slice of whole wheat bread or pasta or rice once per day. EGGS: One boiled egg per week has been recommended by the San Diego Zoo. FOODS TO AVOID t could save a life!! Experiment! Expose your skunk to a wide variety of foods-you'll both be happier for it, and the skunk will be healthier! DON'T LET THEM GET BORED! FRUITS AND VEGETABLES: APPLE AVOCADO BANANA CANTALOUPE COCONUT GRAPES HONEYDEW KIWI FRUIT PEARS NECTARINES ORANGES PEACHES PERSIMMONS PINEAPPLE PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS RAISINS STRAWBERRIES ARTICHOKES BEANS ASPARAGUS TANGERINES BEETS WATERMELON BRUSSEL SPROUTS BROCCOLI CAULIFLOWER CORN CABBAGE CARROTS CELERY COLLARDS ROMAINE OKRA CUCUMBERS ENDIVE PARSLEY MUSHROOMS PEPPERS, INCLUDE HOT! PARSNIPS PEAS RHUBARB POTATOES RADISHES SPROUTS RUTABAGAS SPINACH SQUASH-ALL TURNIPS TOMATOES YAMS WATER CHESTNUTS WATERCRESS ZUCCHINI OTHER SUGGESTED FOODS CEREALS RICE PASTA - ALL WHOLE GRAIN BREAD NUTS - ALL KINDS EGGS COOKED DRIED BEANS CHEESE - ALL KINDS In the beginning, watch your skunk for diarrhea after eating. If it occurs, remove the offending food from the diet. FISH, FOWL AND MEATS Chicken, turkey or any member of the fowl (bird) family may be given, but only if fully boiled or baked - never give raw! Fish of any kind may be given boiled, baked or water-packed, such as canned tuna, salmon, oysters, shrimp or clams. Deer, rabbit or any other game meats may be fed to skunks as long as it is fully cooked in some manner other than frying. NEVER ALLOW YOUR SKUNK TO EAT RAW MEATS OF ANY KIND. IT COULD BE DEADLY!!

Für junge Stinktiere (bis ca. 18 Monate):

Die gesunde Entwicklung eines Stinktiers hängt stark von der Ernährung in den ersten Lebenswochen und -monaten ab. Viele Züchter, gerade die Profitgeilen im Osten, füttern den Tieren Billigfutter, was schnell zu Mangelerscheinungen führen kann. Die Ernährung eines Jungstinktiers von wenigen Wochen ist ein Full-Time-Job, da am Anfang 6 bis 8 mal pro Tag gefüttert werden muß.

BABY SKUNK FEEDING RAPID GROWTH SYNDROME ALERT! Baby skunks weigh about 1 ounce when they come into this world. By the time they are 8 months old, they weigh about 8 pounds, which is about right. The average newborn child has about 16 years to reach its maximum growth. Your baby skunk has 12 to 18 months to grow strong teeth, muscles, bones and organs. It must have calcium, protein and all essential vitamins and minerals in the right proportions to THEIR growth rate, not ours. Handsful and bowlsful of dog food and junk food gives too much calcium and protein, leading to bad teeth, arthritis, degenerative bone disease and paralysis later in life. Do not be tempted or talked into feeding more protein foods than are recommended here. 4 Weeks To About 12 Weeks If your baby skunk does not have teeth or is having a hard time chewing solid food, soak Purina O.N.E., Science Diet Canine Growth or Pro-Plan Adult for dogs in canned diluted Goat's milk, K.M.R. or Espilac until it can eat solid foods. All dog food is very hard to soften, so I suggest that you make enough for several days. Chop enough very fine veggies for the same period of time, saving time for you. Canned VegAll works well. DO NOT EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, FEED CAT FOOD OF ANY KIND, UNLESS ADVISED TO DO SO BY YOUR VET, FOR CERTAIN RARE MEDICAL PROBLEMS!! All skunks should receive a daily FeloBit vitamin; however, DO NOT USE Aviatron Liquid Vitamins for your skunk. Linatone Plus should be given daily to prevent a D-3 deficiency. Introduce vegetables into your skunk's diet as soon as possible. At birth, a skunk weighs about one ounce and then grows very rapidly. It does not stay a baby very long. Therefore, it does not need to be on baby food or formula for more than 8 weeks. If kept on a high protein, high fat diet for very long, your skunk's long-term stay in your life could be endangered. Ninety percent of a skunk's diet, regardless of age, should consist of vegetables. The remaining 10 percent should consist of fruits, low-fat cottage cheese, low-fat yogurt and either,(feed only one at a time, they do not need all three at one meal) boiled chicken, water-packed fish or dog food. They may have certain sweets in small amounts occasionally. NEVER FEED AN ANIMAL CHOCOLATE OF ANY KIND!! IT CAN KILL THEM! 4 WEEKS TO 8 WEEKS From 4 to 8 weeks of age, your baby skunk should be fed 4 meals a day as much as it can eat at one time. This is the time of very rapid growth and it needs a good food supply to get up and going on the right track. Offer a wide variety of vegetables, such as squash, mushrooms, peas, corn, and so on and a few bites of fruit chosen from the lists included in this brochure. At this age, chop the food rather small, maybe into 1/4 inch cubes. Offer low-fat cottage cheese mixed with the vegetables once a day, low-fat yogurt mixed at another meal and maybe finely chopped boiled chicken for supper. A late night snack could maybe be 5 or 6 raisins and a few pieces of popcorn. Be creative and feed a broad spectrum of foods for a happy, healthy skunk. 8 WEEKS TO 12 WEEKS From 8 to 12 weeks, feed 3 times a day, basically the same diet with greater variations. One, single sugar cookie or 1/4 of a Graham cracker or 1 butter cookie or 1 vanilla wafer can be added to the diet at this time, BUT ONLY ONE! Skunks have a huge sweet tooth, so you must be strong and give only one. The purpose of incorporating a small amount of sugar into their diet is twofold. First, sugar is required for the proper absorption of calcium for strong bones and teeth. Second, a tiny amount of sugar seems to help in weight control. Make sure you understand we said ONE cookie, not 1 pound or 1 box! Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon of non-fat dry milk, such as Carnation, over the food once a day, for additional calcium and the prevention of degenerative bone disease later in life. EXAMPLE OF DAILY DIET; 10 TO 20 PIECES OF DOG FOOD, 1 1/4 CUPS VEGGIES AND FRUITS, COTTAGE CHEESE, YOGURT, ONE COOKIE. DIVIDE INTO 4 MEALS! Morning -- 3 pieces of dog food, 2 or 3 slices of squash, carrot, cucumber, celery and orange slices with cottage cheese. Noon -- 3 pieces of dog food, 1/4 cup of Shredded Wheat dry cereal, 2 0r 3 slices of rutabaga, tomato, bell peppers, a few pods of okra mixed with yogurt. Night -- 3 pieces of dog food, peas, corn, romaine, a few pieces of cauliflower, 1 Vanilla wafer, 1 Tablespoon rice or pasta, 1/4 teaspoon of nonfat dry milk sprinkled over their food. Before bedtime snack -- a handful of plain popcorn, 1 dog biscuit, 5 or 6 raisins, 3 or 4 pieces of dog food. The above vegetables & fruit suggestions are not etched in stone, therefore, use your own creativity and availability of veggies and fruits in each season, besides I know of no law that says you cannot buy 1 carrot, 1 squash, 1 artichoke. You can give your skunk a great variety of veggies daily without waste. What would you do if you had to eat only French fries and hamburgers 4 or 5 times a day for the rest of your life? As you are strolling among the veggies at the super market keep in mind, VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE! If you are not at home with your baby skunk during the day, just before leaving put the noon meal out. This will teach your skunk that daytime is a wonderful place to be. Your skunk will not be starving when you return home. Skunks are just like babies, some will eat ten cups full of food while others will not eat all you give them. However if your baby skunk appears to still be looking for more food, give them some more vegetables. Until you know what amounts of food your skunk will eat, give them enough food to satisfy. 12 WEEKS TO 16 WEEKS From 12 to 16 weeks: Cut meals down to twice a day with a snack either in the morning or late evening or whenever it works for your lifestyle. This is the time to reduce the amount of dog food to 8 to 10 pieces a day, continue with the dry milk and ONE cookie a day. By now your skunk should be eating just about any vegetable and fruit that the stores can supply. After 4 months, feed 1 meal and 1 snack daily or use the same feeding routine as before but decrease the amount of dog food and give more veggies. You live with your skunk, I do not, if it makes you happy and it makes your skunk happy to have lunch-by all means give them lunch! Some skunk owners have found that cauliflower increases stool odor unbelievably. It can also cause odor in some skunks. Experiment with your skunk. If it eats it and then smells, you can leave cauliflower out of the diet. It is a wonderful source of many vitamins and minerals, but so are many other veggies! Substitute something else! FOUR MONTHS TO THREE YEARS OLD An adult skunk should only have 15 calories per pound of body weight -- that is less than 150 calories a day regardless of age, weight or activity level. Adjust the amount of food to your skunk's weight. Probably the most important factor in maintaining a healthy skunk is proper diet that includes a large assortment of vegetables daily. Improper diet and obesity (fat) have been traced to the majority of premature deaths we have experienced. Skunks DO NOT need cups of food to be very healthy animals. Quite the contrary, A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY! Vegetables contain very little fats and skunks are mainly vegetarians. Surprise! Skunks that are fed mainly vegetables just look better. Their coats are very shiny, they appear to be healthier and I have never seen a skunk that is too fat or too thin when fed properly. Love and concern are very powerful tools that can make your skunk perfect in every way. However, too much love can make a skunk too big or too little. FAT SKUNK It is very easy for a skunk to become obese. They act as they are never full, will eat almost anything and are always begging for food. The easiest way to control your skunk's weight is to feed it proper amounts of the right foods and give it low fat, low calorie healthy snacks. A filled coffee saucer is a good amount to feed your skunk from the diet sheet in this brochure. Obesity leads to severe liver, heart and kidney damage and we have rarely seen an obese skunk live long even if it loses the weight. A healthy skunk should have a thick, glossy coat, white (not yellow) stripes, bright clear eyes and, above all, not be overweight. Regardless of what your skunk tells you, CONTROL IT'S DIET! You teach the skunk about diet -- don't let him teach you. It is far easier to control your skunk's weight before the fact, than to correct it after the fact. One furry 20 pound basketball with legs and eyes does not look like a skunk but a very unique door stop. SKINNY SKUNKS Please keep in mind that your skunk is not a fashion model and does not have to have the long lean slinky look. This too can cause more problems than you could ever dream of, such as, brain damage, nerve damage, stunted growth, and just plain mean!!! Use your own ideas about the right way to eat when feeding your skunk. Mother always told you to eat a balanced diet and all your Veggies and you would grow up to be big and strong! A two foot, 3 pound skunk is not a pretty sight. It is just plain ugly!

<ul> ~ mussu guck wo steht</ul>